If there is one overarching characteristic whose importance precedes that of all the characteristics listed in this article, it’s that every image needs to have a purpose. The image should tell a story or capture a unique moment in a meaningful way. If you comb through your portfolio and find yourself wondering why you captured a particular image, then there’s a good chance it’s lacking some or all of the following characteristics.

While it is highly unlikely that a given image (even an amazing photo) will include all of these characteristics, try to combine as many as possible and always keep composition in mind.  Without any further delay, here are 10 Characteristics of Great Photos.

10 Characteristics of Great Photos

1 – A Good Photo Has a Compelling Composition

Most basic photography guides include common compositional concepts like the rule of thirds and rules of symmetry, but what other techniques can we use to create compelling compositions? Some less common techniques involve negative space, leading lines, depth of field, and framing. I mention this rule first because it doesn’t matter which particular style, technique, or rule you follow, so long as every image is thoughtfully composed. There will be times when composition takes a back seat in order to just grab the shot, but it should otherwise be considered whenever possible.

The image above uses one of the most common compositional rules, the rule of thirds, in two ways. First, the dunes occupy two-thirds of the image horizontally, leaving the sun & sky to fill the final third. Secondly, the couple has been placed near the upper left intersection of the horizontal and vertical thirds. Although the rule is commonly practiced, this image exemplifies why it is so effective, especially in this scene from Dubai.

The image above features the dynamic symmetry of continuous spiral, which is often found in both nature and architecture. There are mathematical equations concerning ratios that explain in technical terms why this is pleasing to the eye, but it’s easy enough to notice how the lines effectively lead to the subjects, who’ve been placed in the lower left third of the image. Of course, the dramatic lighting also plays a role in minimizing distractions and drawing the viewer’s focus to the brightest part of the photo.

The photo above features several compositional components, including leading lines, the rule of thirds, and unique framing. The leading lines in the scene draw the viewer’s eye to the couple, who occupy the space framed by the walls on either side of the walkway at the Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles. In addition, the entire composition is framed using thirds, the left third where the couple resides, and the right two-thirds occupied by the wall and leading lines. The couple’s reflection in the wall on the right also adds a sense of (nearly symmetrical) balance to the image.

Framing is key in the image above, as the couple is framed inside of multiple layers of squares. They’ve also been placed at the intersection of the lower left thirds, and lighting has been used to draw focus to the couple.

In the image above, bokeh, which basically refers to the out-of-focus parts of the image, works in tandem with a shallow depth-of-field to separate the subjects from the background (and in the case of this shoot-through, the foreground as well). The subjects occupy a very narrow margin of space that remains in focus, which also happens to reside in the lower-right third of the image.

Here, we have a great showcase for the power of symmetry. The couple has been placed on the apex of the triangular rock formation in the foreground, creating the first layer of symmetry. The mountain range in the background also adds to the symmetry of the image in that it echoes the triangular shape in the foreground while also providing its own symmetrical element.

You can find more information on composition and how to combine compositional elements here.

2 – Display Of Emotion Can Create a Good Photo

As human beings, we are drawn to emotion. Whether we’re laughing or crying, emotion ties each and everyone of us together. Images that capture genuine displays of emotion often prove timeless, and these meaningful moments will always capture the audience’s attention.

The image above was captured during a Vidaai, which marks the end of the Hindu wedding ceremony and the beginning of the bride and groom’s journey as husband and wife. Vidaais can be intensely emotional as the bride’s friends and family wish her farewell (as illustrated above).

On the flipside of sad emotions, genuine happiness also effectively connects viewers to the subjects in images. Usually, the more candid and natural the capture appears (even if it was actually directed), the larger the impact of the image.

3 – Storytelling Makes a Good Photo

Some of the greatest images simply tell a story. Rather than relying on great composition or featuring other unique characteristics, they instead focus on storytelling. Some of the best storytelling images are found in the news and other sources of photojournalism. From the triumphant shout of a newly crowned sports champion to a protester standing in front of a tank in the Tiananmen Square massacre, these images capture and freeze moments in history for everyone to become a witness. Here are a few examples from weddings we’ve photographed.

You can almost feel the anticipation in the air as the bride’s father walks her down the stairs to the ceremony site at Malibu Rocky Oaks. From this unique perspective, you can see the story unfold as the bride’s family, friends, and groom-to-be anxiously await her arrival.

What is bride prep without a little help from the bride’s friends or family? Here, an ensemble cast of bridesmaids admire the bride’s beauty from all angles while helping her with the final touches in preparation for her big day.

For wedding photographers, the first look at the altar offers a perfect opportunity to capture the anticipation and surprise of the bride and groom seeing one another for the first time on their wedding day (depending on whether or not they did a first look earlier in the day). It’s one of the staple moments of the entire day.

4 – Elliptical Storytelling

Most images that tell a story are already worthwhile, but images that tell stories while leaving something to the viewer’s imagination are even better. You’ve probably heard people say that the book is always better than the movie because it allows us to use our imagination to create the most amazing and personalized special effects in our minds. Images that leave something to the imagination tend to do the same thing. They offer just enough information to fuel our imagination as we fill in the missing pieces.

This image was shot at a local airport during an engagement shoot. While we can’t be sure of the subjects’ identities, we’re given enough clues to imagine they’re embarking on a long-distance trip. We don’t know where they’re going or under what circumstances, but that’s also why the image works so well. The limited clues let you imagine the rest.

We’re given very few clues to determine the situation in the above image, but it’s enough to allow for creative speculation. The close proximity between the subjects implies a close relationship, and the style of the shoes and wardrobe combined with the graffitied background lend an urban feel to this untold story.

5 – Iconic Moments Make Good Photos

When capturing an iconic moment, you are capturing a moment created or modeled after meaningful moments in pop culture and/or history. Whether it is a reproduction of a scene from a classic movie or a moment based around something trendy, these shots allow the audience to feel emotionally connected to the moment within the imagery.

While James Dean never rode a motorcycle in his movies, plenty of photos exist of the star as he sits atop an old Triumph, exuding the cool guy, rebel persona he’s often associated with. In the James Dean-inspired shot above, viewers are transported back to the era of cool as we spy a glimpse of a couple in the rearview mirror, just before they ride off into the sunset.

The couples portrait above recalls the golden age of Hollywood through its use of dapper outfits, editorial posing, dramatic lighting, and on-set props (like the retro-style light, which was part of the decor in a room at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel).

6 – A Good Photo Often Captures Unique Moments

What’s an easy way to create an interesting image? Simple, shoot something that is unique to the respective audience. For example, while a Christian wedding may seem quite common in the United States, a traditional Hindu wedding isn’t so common and therefore is automatically more interesting to an audience in the states. Other unique moments might reveal themselves during unusual events or at one-of-a-kind locations.\

During his pre-wedding baraat, a Sikh bridegroom peeks through the strands of his Sehra to take in the sights. While baraats are quite common in Hindu and Sikh weddings, they’re unique to those who’ve never witnessed them. In addition, the ornate and colorful clothing worn by most in attendance make for unique photos.

It’s not often that you get to capture family portrait framed under a spectacular fireworks display. The image above took place outside the venue during a wedding reception and used a backlight to separate the family from the background.

You can find more tips on how to capture portraits under fireworks here.

The image above was captured at sunset just after the clouds began to clear at Malibu Rocky Oaks. By using off-camera flash to highlight the couple, we were able to capture a unique couples portrait in an environment whose look and lighting changed by the minute.

You can see how we captured the image above here.

7 – Juxtaposed/Contrasting Concepts

Some of the most interesting images juxtapose (compare) completely contrasting objects and concepts. Examples of this might include a beautiful bride in a completely white and flowing wedding dress shot in front of a background littered with trash and graffiti, thus juxtaposing beauty and purity with ugly and uncleanliness. Or perhaps a homeless person downtown sitting with all of his belongings with a glowing Merryl Lynch sign in the background, contrasting utter poverty with a symbol of wealth and power. See the images below for more examples.

You might be wondering what’s going on in this image. We’re looking out from a makeshift shanty in downtown Los Angeles. This might not be the first place one would imagine using as a backdrop for an engagement portrait, but it aligns with the urban engagement theme and presents a unique setting for lighting and framing the couple.

The image above was shot at the Long Beach Performing Arts Center against a graffiti-esque wall mural. The dapper wardrobes of the bride and groom in this editorial style shot contrasts well against the painted background.

8 – Unique Lighting and Color Can Make a Good Photo

Lighting and color is really where a lot of great images start. Great lighting can turn a mundane scene into an amazingly colorful scene full of texture and life. In nature, these types of scenes happen all the time during sunrise and sunset, and while we can’t control the lighting of those fleeting moments, if you happen to be in the right place at the right time, you just may be able to capture it (see point number six above). However, we can control and create unique lighting on our own with the proper knowledge using off camera lighting, flashes and more.

The image above was created using a whip pan technique, which can be used to add dynamic motion with shutter drags (long exposures). While the backdrop in this image was already appealing, the added light technique makes this portrait standout from others captured in this same location.

By lowering the ambient exposure in-camera and illuminating the couple with off-camera flash, we were able to capture this unique couples portrait under the beautiful Arizona sky.

Silhouettes are backlit images that are easy to capture and can help you create a good photo. In the image above, captured in the dunes outside of Dubai, we placed the subjects directly in front of the setting sun and lowered our exposure to reveal the outline of the couple riding a camel across the sand. White balance also plays an important role in this image as it adds a desert feel with the bright orange sky.

9 – Attention To Detail

In our time and society where everything is about speed and efficiency, images that capture overlooked detail can be enough to make someone stop to smell the roses. While pictures of unique and unseen detail is amazing and breathtaking, you can often get the same reaction out of your audience by simply shooting the detail in everyday life.

This detail image of a bride’s shoes was captured on a hotel tabletop during a wedding in Huntington Beach. The dramatic lighting and reflective surface elevate this photo to a product shot you might expect to see in an ad for the shoes.

While they’re often used to photograph flowers and insects, macro lenses open up a world of possibilities for photographing all kinds of tiny objects, including wedding rings (as seen in the image above). The best part is, aside from purchasing a macro lens, you can use inexpensive lighting to get your desired look.

In the image above, an Indian bride takes a brief pause before heading out to the ceremony site. The ornate dress and accessories, as well as the henna on the bride’s hands and arms, are packed with detail and deserving of a closer look.  A good photo is sometimes one that’s zoomed in tight on the details.

For more information on how to photograph details like those featured above, see our Photographing the Groom and Photographing the Bride wedding workshops.

10 – Unique Perspective

Most of us live our lives viewing the world with relatively the same perspective. This is what makes unique perspectives so interesting to the audience. Instead of shooting a child from an adult’s perspective, why not get down low and shoot them from the child’s perspective. Very low bottom-up and higher top-down can often create a much more unique and interesting image.

This image was shot during an event as some of the kids were having a little party of their own. What better way to shoot kids, then to shoot it from their perspective. You can imagine how this shot wouldn’t be nearly as special were it shot from a standing (grown up) perspective.

No drone was needed for this overhead photo of a bride and groom dancing in the rotunda at the Monarch Beach Resort. Whether you have to use a drone, balcony, or even an extended monopod, capturing your image from a higher perspective can elevate your image and help you create a good photo.

The image above was shot from a low angle to capture this unique perspective and show the beautiful background above the couple. Remember that backgrounds can be above or below you!

In this portrait taken at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah, we’ve used a wide aperture panoramic stitching technique called the Brenizer Method to showcase the couple. Without using this technique, it would be difficult to capture this large of a frame with such shallow depth of field.

We discuss this technique more in-depth in our Panoramic Stitching Workshop.

Conclusion

We hope you enjoyed this article! If so, please share this article to show us your love! Also, please add your additional ideas on creating great images in the comments below.

In this article, we’ll outline the similarities and differences of tripods vs. monopods (as well as the tripod heads that hold your camera) so that you’ll know when to use each.

Tripods

We’ve all seen photographers use tripods before, and chances are we’ve tried using one ourselves. They are ubiquitous. You can easily spot their familiar shape, a teepee of three spindly legs with a camera mounted on top. Most tripods consist of the following parts:

• Release plate
• Tripod head
• Center column (depends on the model)
• Three height-adjustable legs with rubber feet

As you probably could have guessed, not all tripods are created equally. You can find a list of our favorite tripods here. Basically, when choosing a tripod, you’ll need to consider the following factors:

• Purpose: For macro, still life, studio, and landscape photography, tripods reign supreme, although they can be used for any genre. Tripods also work best for slow shutter speeds (aka shutter drags) and time lapses because of the literal stand-alone stability they provide. You’ll notice that most of these pros for tripods deal with time and come in handy when more time is available. Compared to monopods, tripods generally take longer to set up.
• Size & Weight: While you can find small, lightweight table top and travel tripods, most full frame tripods weigh in on the heavier side (4-8 pounds), especially when compared to monopods (1-4 pounds, depending on the head and base). This can make a noticeable difference when it comes to portability and versatility in the field. The three legs also create a larger footprint and can make it difficult to set up in tight or crowded spaces.
• Load Capacity: Tripods are generally rated to hold anywhere between 15-50 pounds (this varies depending on the make and model). When it comes to being able to walk away from your camera, you’ll want a tripod. In all actuality, we don’t recommend walking away from a monopod, even one equipped with a sturdy base.
• Durability: Options exist for carbon fiber, aluminum, plastic, and other metals. The material used to make the tripod has much to do with its durability (as well as its weight). It’s worth noting that there are still variations within a single type (such as carbon fiber) in relation to which company made the tripod. This is one instance where more reputable brands tend to produce more durable products. Keep that in mind when considering a no-name carbon fiber tripod vs. an aluminum tripod from an established, reputable brand.
• Price: Entry-level prices start around $50 and shoot upwards to $3k-$4k for higher end models.

[Related Reading: 6 Artistic Photo Effects Using Tripods]

Monopods

Whereas tripods have three (tri) legs, a monopod has one leg. Most other features are the same (release plate, tripod head, adjustable sections for height, and a foot). The feet on a monopod vary from a single spike or rubber foot to a miniature tripod base. In addition to supporting cameras, monopods work very well as a “boom stick” for off-camera flash due to their smaller size, light weight, and overall portability.

Just like the tripods, you can find many makes and models for monopods. Before you purchase a monopod, consider the following factors:

• Purpose: Monopods are all about portability and speed. They provide less stability due to their single point of contact on the ground (even with a mini tripod base), but they’re still better than handheld. Monopods are the go-to for action and sports photographers for lightweight, small size, and ease of use. Because they’re less stable than tripods, they are not ideal for use with long exposure photography.
• Size & Weight: Monopods are lighter and smaller than tripods, and they tend to be quicker and easier to set up. They range in height from 24″-80″ (which is adjustable) and weigh between 1-4 pounds.
• Load Capacity: Monopods can hold a surprisingly high weight capacity (some models can hold over 50 pounds, depending on the head used with the monopod), which is impressive considering the low weight of the monopod itself.
• Durability: This topic basically echoes what we had to say about durability when it comes to tripods. You’ll find monopods made of carbon fiber, aluminum, plastic, and other metals. Keep in mind the brand when trying to decide which model will last longer.
• Price: Monopod prices start around $15 and range all the way up to $500+ with the head included.

[Related Reading: Steadicam Air 25 Monopod Review: Is it Worth $500?]

Tripod (or Monopod) Heads

You can find a wide variety of heads to use on both tripods and monopods. As you’ll find, some photographers from different genres favor some heads over others based on the precision of their movement as well as their complexity (or lack thereof). Others concentrate on their load capacity; regardless, the purpose of a tripod head or monopod head remains the same: provide a means of attaching your camera to a tripod/monopod.

Here’s a quick overview of the different types of tripod (or monopod) heads:

• Ball Head: As the name suggests, you’ll find a ball housed within this head and a knob to tighten and loosen it accordingly. You may also find other knobs to adjust a panning axis or increase the friction for more precise positioning. Ball heads work well for most genres of photography.
• 3-Way | Pan & Tilt Head: 3-way heads come equipped with three handles, which you can use to adjust three axes: vertical, horizontal, and panning. You’ll find these heads used in most every genre of photography with heavy usage among landscape photographers.
• Gear Head: These function similarly to a 3-way head, but repositioning the head requires making individual adjustments via the gears. On the plus side, the gears allow for precise repositioning. Unfortunately, they’re also time-consuming and complex.
• Gimbal Head: You’ll mostly find these in the hands of wildlife and sports photographers, or anyone using especially large telephoto lenses. These heads usually attach to the lens, rather than the camera like most tripod heads, and they allow for quick panning motion to track fast moving objects like birds, athletes, and so on.
• Pistol (Grip) Head: These tripod heads are all about speed, which is great for wildlife and sports photographers, but they don’t hold much weight, literally. They operate much like a ball head, but they come equipped with a squeezable pistol grip for repositioning as opposed to an adjustable knob.

[Related Reading: Simple Photography Tips | What Tripod Head Is Right for Me?]

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed this article on monopods vs. tripods and when to use each. In short, tripods generally work best for macro, still life, studio, and landscape photographers while monopods are the go-to for sports, action, and wildlife photographers.

Anytime we’re faced with an abundance of choices when it comes to gear, it can be difficult to know where to start in terms of what to buy and for what purpose. While there are similarities between tripods vs. monopods, they each stand on their own for very specific applications, as outlined above. As we also discussed, tripod heads also come in a range of styles and sizes in order to serve different purposes.

There will always be tradeoffs, such as stability for versatility. Most beginning photographers, however, base their decisions on price and aim for affordability over functionality. At the end of the day, the point of purchasing gear is to allow us to do with it what we couldn’t do without it. For tripods and monopods, that means creating a stable platform to allow for shake-free, quality footage using our cameras and lenses, whatever their weight and size.

Before you pull the trigger and purchase a tripod or monopod, check the specs and do not settle for less than what you need, even if it costs a little more. Chances are, the more reputable and reliable gear will save you money in the long run.

Video: 3 Ways to Level Up Your Creativity Without Buying Additional Gear

It’s really quite simple. You can use simple techniques and the gear you already have (a camera, a lens, and maybe a tripod) to level up your creativity. This article expands on concepts covered in our Photography 101 workshop.

[Related Reading: How to Use the Lightroom Panorama Tool | Quick Reference]

Technique #1: Wide Aperture Panoramic Stitch

This technique was popularized by Ryan Brenizer and is often referred to as the “Brenizer Method.” The benefit of using this technique is that it allows you to create a wide angle image with an impossibly shallow depth of field. I say “impossibly shallow” because capturing this wide of a shot with this shallow depth of field in a single frame would require something like a 24mm lens at f/.2 (that’s f-point-two, not f-two), which—to my knowledge—doesn’t exist.

How to Capture a Wide Aperture Panoramic Stitch

1. Grab a prime lens (preferably a 50mm, but whatever you have should work).
2. Widen out the aperture as wide as it’ll go, preferably anywhere between f/1.4-f/1.8.
3. Shoot your subject at the right distance. In other words, your subject should fit vertically into an entire frame (see the sample above). This makes it easier to stitch your images together, especially if the subjects are moving a bit. If you’re too far away from your subject, you lose the added depth of field that a wide aperture pano-stitch photo offers.
4. Dial in your settings and lock your focus onto your subject. This is critical. Make sure your lens is set to manual focus after locking onto your subject so that you don’t refocus for each new shot in the series.
5. Shoot the Panorama. I prefer to start in the center and then work my way to the left, and then to the right. From there, if I want to include more vertical space, I would start at the center again and then work my way to the far left at a lower level to include more vertical space, and so on (see image collage above). It’s good to overlap each shot so that the stitch is possible in post.

Keep in mind that the final stitched image will be a super large, high-megapixel image, given that it’s comprised of multiple high-resolution photos. For this reason, I recommend shooting in a medium or small RAW format. Otherwise, the amount of resulting data for the stitched photo will slow your computer’s performance and require extra time to process.

Additional Shooting Tips

For the image on the left, I lit the subject using a Profoto light for external flash inside a softbox. The image on the right was captured using natural light. You can play with different lighting effects to achieve a variety of looks.

As you can see in the image above, using different lenses will open up the possible outcomes for your wide aperture panoramic stitch portraits as well. For this image, I used a tilt-shift lens and set my focus right to the subjects’ faces. This allowed everything else to fall out of focus and in an ultra-negative space-type shot.

How to Edit a Wide Angle Panoramic Stitch

1. Open the images in Lightroom and select all of the images that will be used in the panorama.
2. Hover over one of the images, right click, and select Photo Merge > Panorama (see above).

Lightroom will merge the series of photos into a DNG file of the panorama. This will give you the full editing flexibility of a RAW file.

Technique #2: Pan for Motion

One of the easiest techniques you can use to level up your creativity is adding motion. When we pan for motion, we need to do the following:

1. Slow the shutter speed down to a sweet spot (usually between 1/10 and 1/50) that allows you to capture motion. The exact shutter speed will vary, depending on the speed of the movement you’re capturing, lighting conditions, etc. Just remember, faster moving subjects will require a faster shutter speed while slower moving subjects require a slower shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too slow, you’ll have a hard time keeping the focus on your subject sharp.
2. Set your exposure with ISO and Aperture.
3. Choose a focal point. You’ll want to place your focal point somewhere in the frame that complements your composition. Use the focal point to lock focus on your subject as the subject moves past.
4. Position the camera close to your body for stability. It can help to use the viewfinder for this effect because it allows you to keep the camera tucked close to you. Holding the camera away from your body will increase the risk of introducing camera shake into the photo.
5. Set your camera to high speed and shoot through the entire sequence of your subject passing by. This will give you a better chance of capturing a sharp subject.
6. Pan to follow your subject, moving in the same direction and at the same speed.

Expect to practice this technique in order to master it.

[Related Reading: Panning Video Tutorial for Photography – Shooting Moving Subjects]

Technique #3: Shutter Drag for Motion

Instead of moving our cameras with the subject to create motion, we can use shutter drag to capture movement. We just need to hold the camera still and slow the shutter speed enough to show the surrounding environment. Here’s how to do it:

1. Place the camera on a tripod.
2. Dial in your composition and move your subjects into place. Before placing your subjects, make sure that you’ve instructed them to hold completely still while you capture the shot. The slow shutter speed can quickly render your subjects out of focus if they move.
3. Slow the shutter speed enough to show motion. Here’s a quick breakdown for typical shutter drag shutter speeds:
   1. .5″ to 2″ for “wispy” water
   2. 10″ to 20″ for a foggy effect. This may require creating a composite with one frame exposed for the subjects and another for the motion in the water.
   3. The maximum amount of time that subjects can hold still without getting blurry is one to two seconds, so you may need to create a composite and expose for the subjects in one frame while capturing the movement (of passing cars, crashing waves, etc.) in another frame.
4. Dial in your exposure with ISO and aperture.
5. Capture the shot.

In the image above, 1/10″ was enough to capture the entire scene in motion. You can learn more about how we created this shot here.

If you’re doing this technique in broad daylight and you image is still overexposed after lowering your ISO and closing down your aperture, you may need to invest in a Neutral Density filter, preferably one that dims your exposure by 3-5 stops.

Conclusion

We hope you enjoyed these tips on three ways to level up your creativity without having to buy additional gear. You can revisit these and other concepts in our Photography 101 workshop and dive further into the fundamentals of portrait photography.

Be sure to catch our next episode of Mastering Your Craft on Adorama’s YouTube channel next week! If you want to catch up on all the episodes, make sure you check out our playlist!

The Sliders We Use

For SLRLounge productions, we use the Syrp Magic Carpet. It’s a versatile slider that comes in 2 sizes, it’s motion tracking ready, and it’s easy to set up and use.

4 Camera Movements You Can Do With A Slider

Camera Movement #1: Slide

This camera movement should be obvious because the equipment is named after the movement. A slide is simply when a camera moves laterally through three-dimensional space. In layman’s terms, the camera moves side to side.

Camera Movement #2: Boom

A Boom (or Jib) is when a camera moves up or down through space. Putting it on a slider gives you a fixed plane for the camera to move on, so you can execute smooth camera booms.

Camera Movement #3: Push/Pull

Push is when you move the camera forward towards your subject, and pull is when you move the camera backwards away from your subject. These are important camera moves for storytelling. A push will focus your viewer’s attention on your subject, and a pull will reveal more of the frame to your viewers.

Camera Movement #4: Parallax

The Parallax is a when a camera slides in one direction while panning the opposite direction. This is a great way to execute movement with your slider while maintaining focus on your subject.

Study Your Favorite Movies and Scenes

These camera movements are universal and many directors and cinematographers will implement them in their movies. Next time you watch a movie try, to be more aware of the camera movement choices the director is making, and how that affects the story telling.

I hope you enjoyed this video. If you want to see more like this then let me know in the comments!